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Karl Lagerfeld believes in all the right things, but he doesn't feel a need to shout them from the rooftops. Cliff sides will do just fine. "Waterfalls are the healthiest thing in the world," he said after his spring/summer 2018 Chanel show where luxuriant rocks evoking Gorges du Verdon - the canyon in the South-East of France - turned the Grand Palais into an imposing waterfall. "The breeze was pleasant," Lagerfeld noted, pointing out the cool flurry exuding from the cascading water, cutting through the greenhouse-like heat building inside the giant glass-roofed building. Last night at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton talked about "the healing power of flowers" this seemed like Lagerfeld turning up the breeze on that restorative calm of nature.

The Great Chanel Set Story

The Great Chanel Set Story

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"It's up to you what you see, whatever you see. I haven't seen the show," he said with typical no-nonsense delivery. "I don't make philosophical notes on it." Lagerfeld isn't one for a circle kumbaya, but watching those beautiful, unbearably light garments glistening in motion on the boardwalk erected in front of the waterfall, how could you not see his ravishing spectacle as a shimmer of hope, corny as it may sound. It was virtually therapeutic: softly fringed knitwear like lush forest foliage, sunrise-coloured lurex mini dresses, aquatic motifs on floating evening dresses, and garments gorgeously embroidered with water drops. If the clear plastic boots, gloves and rain hats - and hems delectably trimmed in plastic waterfall fringing - sent exquisite chills of Sixties futurism down your spine, Lagerfeld wasn't giving it away.

Chanel Has Just Dropped A New "It" Boot

Chanel Has Just Dropped A New "It" Boot

"In the Sixties I was bored. How horrible," he shrugged. "I liked the Seventies. They were all glamour." Be as it may, his collection had memories of the Space Age sentimentality we've come across more than once this season, no doubt thanks to Lagerfeld's own Rocket Man show for Chanel last March. It's the Barbarella look we associate with Jane Fonda and Paco Rabanne in the late Sixties. Fonda, like her contemporaries Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin, represented the fashionable activism of the time - an age of political youth revolt, which Lagerfeld lived through as a young man in his 30s. Now 84, you can see how the current political waves would give him a deja-vu to those "horrible" but impactful years, and the "all-glamour" escapism that followed in the Seventies.

How Do You Become One Of Chanel's Leading Ladies?

How Do You Become One Of Chanel's Leading Ladies?

His old-world manners and strict principles against nostalgia and sentimentality would never allow him to flaunt it - "I have no archives, nothing," he reminded his audience - but in this collection was a clear-as-plastic subliminal message to learn from the past in our approach to the future. "He believes in beauty, he's Venus as a boy," Björk serenaded the designer on the soundtrack, and comparing Lagerfeld to the goddess of beauty and prosperity seemed like an appropriate sentiment at this point in his career. "I think I'm lazy, I could do better, I make an effort next time," he said with self-effacing insight. It made you wonder if Lagerfeld's objectives in life, as one of the world's influential people, now go way beyond the improvement of just fashion.

Another Fashion Week, Another Debut For Kaia Gerber

Another Fashion Week, Another Debut For Kaia Gerber

By Anders Christian Madsen




Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos

Chanel Christian Gray photos